A: The factory fitted sound systems are nicely integrated in recent times, not only in Commodores, but in many other makes also. The integration of steering wheel controls and HUD information is not only convenient, but enhances safety in not having to look away from the road. Many people don't want to lose these features, plus the units are also designed to blend in nicely with the overall interior look. Those who desire higher performance from the entertainment system are sometimes left a little disappointed with the connectivity options (or lack of them) with the standard unit, so usually the only option is to fit aftermarket - removing the integrated functions (unless you spend a good amount more), and increasing the temptation for thieves. The modifications allow this enhanced connectivity to provide both 4 channel true low-level RCA outputs on one hand, and an Auxiliary Input feature to allow connection of a MP3 player, cassette walkman, laptop audio - whatever has a headphone socket - on the other. These mods can be done one or the other, or a combination of both.

A: This one's easy! The fact is that the very vast majority of distortion in audio systems comes from the power amplifier. (pretty much the last link in the signal chain before the loudspeaker) The power amps in a car stereo are IC devices (Integrated Circuits or "chips") so as to save space and make assembly easy, but they are limited though in the output voltage (hence power) they can produce, and their distortion figures usually aren't very good. A line output converter simply wires in to the speaker outputs and attenuates (makes smaller - the opposite of amplification) the high level signal voltage back to an acceptably low voltage to feed the external amplifier inputs - complete with the distortion introduced by the on-board power amp chips. Regardless of what quality external components you're using, you're feeding them a distorted signal to start with! The output mod picks up the signals internally after the pre-amps, but before the power amp - clean as a whistle. The signals pass through a "buffer" circuit so that external loading or short circuit which might occur won't cause any faults in the unit or otherwise affect the operation. (which can happen - we don't mean to, but sometimes....) For convenience, the mod also provides a remote trigger for the amp(s), also protected from fault conditions.

A: Absolutely yes. The overall operation of the unit is not affected in any way at all. There is no indication that anything is other than factory stock, operationally and aesthetically.

A: Because the sound system sub-assembly is dismantled and modified, unfortunately the warranty on this item will be void. However, if you're engine falls out or something, and the dealer blames your modified head unit (if they even notice!), then I think you'll have a good case with the Fair Trading Dept.

A: Yes it has, the final prototype was commissioned to overcome this problem. No aspect of the normal operation is affected.

A: I would very strongly suggest that without the right level of experience and access to the right tools, you should NOT take this job on. You will need access to the right tools, and you'll need to know how to use them. For those who work in the electronics industry and are comfortable with soldering , then it's quite straightforward. For another who "built a Dick Smith kit years ago, but I couldn't get it to work...", I'd suggest you get friendly with a good technician.

A: If you're in the Sydney area, that's easy - I'm located in the Western suburbs. Alternatively, I can do the work on a "mail-in / mail-back" basis - the work can be done overnight and the unit on the way back the following day. The last option is to keep an eye out for the "ASR Roadshow" - I'm planning a trip to each state capital (in Aust) to perform full mods for folks if enough interest is shown. The first Roadshow trips are planned for early 2007.